Return  this  book  on  or  before  the 
Latest  Date  stamped  below. 


F.  A.  vv\n.i-/L,r>i\jrn 

Ass't  Gen'l  Pass'r  Agent, 

Denver,  Colo. 


L161— H41 
5TTtmOOPER, 


New  York. 


City,  Utah. 


Agent, 
as  City,  Mo. 


nver,  Colo. 


Gen'l  Passenger  Agent, 

Denver,  Colo. 


(t 


Passenger  Department  of  the  Denver  x  Rio  Grande  r-r- 


"AROUND  THE  CIRCLE 

Will  be  sent  free  upon 
application  to 


J.  W.  SLOSSON, 

General  Agent, 
236  Clark  Street,  Chicago. 


H.  E.  TUPPER, 

Gen'l  Eastern  Agent,  § 

.  291  Broadway,  New  York. 


W.  J.  SHOTWELL, 
General  Agent, 

No.  203  Front  Street, 

San  Francisco. 


B.  F.  NEVINS, 

General  Agent, 

Salt  Lake  City,  Utah. 


W.  F.  TIBBITS, 

Trav.  Passenger  Agent, 

Denver,  Colo. 


H.  V.  LUYSTER, 

Trav.  Passenger  Agent, 
305  W.  9th  St.,  Kansas  City,  Mo. 


W.  H.  SNEDAKER, 

General  Agent  R.  G.  W.  Ry., 
14  Montgomery  St.,  San  Francisco,  Cal. 

E.  T.  JEFFERY,  A.  S.  HUGHES, 

Pres.  &  Gen'l  Mgr.,  Traffic  Manager, 

Denver,  Colo.  Denver,  Colo. 


F.  A.  WADLEIGH, 

Ass't  Gen'l  Pass'r  Agent, 

Denver,  Colo. 


S.  K.  HOOPER, 

Gen'l  Passenger  Agent, 

Denver,  Colo. 


oA  eWney  which  eomjarises  more /Med  and  Munificent  Scenery 
Than  la  comfsaased  in  any  other  one  Thousand  Mile<& 
of  (ravel  in  the  known  OJorld 
 -w  :  

~PR£5E/viT£D  BY  The  9 


Passenger •  Department  of  the  Denver  x  Rio-Grande  rr- 

-A,   


Copyright, 

By  S.  K.  HOOPER,  General  Passenger  Agent,  Denver,  Colo. 
Denver  &  Rio  Grande  R.  R. 


Knight,  Leonard  &  Co.,  Printers 
Chicago, 


INTRODUCTION. 


glHE  TOURIST  in  search  of  grand  and  beautiful 

SFo  scenery  finds  an  embarrassment  of  riches  in  Colo- 
0*§j/  rado.  Among  so  many  attractions  he  is  at  a  loss 
|lp  which  to  choose,  and  having  made  a  choice,  he  is 
jpl  (  frequently  troubled  with  doubts  as  to  the  wisdom 
mjif  of  his  selection.  Recognizing  this  fact,  the  Pas- 
BTj  senger  Department  of  the  Denver  &  Rio  Grande 
— -Hi  Railroad,  after  a  careful  and  thoughtful  discus- 
sion of  the  situation,  has  decided  to  make  a 
selection  of  a  tour  that  shall  embrace  the  most  varied  and 
picturesque  scenery  to  be  found  on  the  line  of  any  railroad 
in  the  world,  included  in  a  single  trip,  at  a  moderate  cost. 
The  excursion  "Around  the  Circle"  presents  all  these 
advantages.  It  can  be  made  comfortably  in  four  days, 
and  no  portion  of  the  journey  has  to  be  retraced,  thus 
affording  constant  variety  and  keeping  the  interest  of  the 
tourist  pleasurably  excited  to  the  end.  It  is  a  remarkable 
fact  that  this  journey,  if  pursued  in  the  line  laid  down  in  the  following  pages, 
is  cumulative  in  its  character.  Like  a  well- constructed  drama,  the  interest 
grows  stronger  and  stronger  with  each  stage  of  its  progress,  until  the  final 
scene,  which  is  an  overpowering  climax  of  grandeur  and  majesty.  The 
points  of  interest  on  the  trip  "  Around  the  Circle"  are  practically  innumer- 
able. The  observing  tourist  will  discover  many  beauties  and  attractions 
which  are  not  described  by  the  writer.  No  attempt  has  been  made  to 
.  include  all  that  is  worthy  of  mention.  Only  those  scenes  which  are  of  tran- 
scendent interest  have  been  touched  upon,  and  in  the  pages  which  follow, 
the  reader  will  only  obtain  a  bird's-eye  view  of  the  tour.  This  being  the 
case,  the  tourist  can  readily  imagine  what  pleasure  lies  before  him.  In  this 
^instance  distance  does  not  lend  enchantment  to  the  view.  To  penetrate  the 
heart  of  the  majestic  mountains,  to  cross  and  re-cross  the  great  Rocky 
Range,  to  gaze  with  breathless  awe  into  the  defiles  of  abysmal  chasms,  and 
to  behold  with  reverent,  upturned  eyes  the  ancient  summits  of  heaven- 
defying  snow-crowned  peaks,  are  privileges  that  familiarity  can  never  make 
commonplace  nor  belittle.  Such  privileges  are  granted  to  the  tourists 
«' Around  the  Circle,"  and  with  full  confidence  that  he  who  takes  the  journey 
will  find  his  brightest  anticipations  more  than'  realized,  this  little  book  is 
placed  before  him. 

3 


SEVEN  FALLS— CHEYENNE  CANON. 


"AROUND  THE  CIRCLE.1 


HE  journey  "Around  the  Circle"  on  the  Denver  and  Rio 
Grande  Railroad,  from  Denver  to  Silverton,  Silverton  to 
Ouray,  and  return  to  Denver,  or  via  the  Denver  &  Rio  Grande 
to  Durango,  thence  over  the  Rio  Grande  Southern  R.  R.  to 
Ridgway  and  return  to  Denver,  briefly  described  in  the 
following  pages,  comprises  more  noted  and  magnificent  scenery 
than  aiiy  other  trip  of  similar  length  in  the  known  world- 
Piercing  the  heart  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  crossing  and  recross- 
ing  the  "Great  Divide  "  between  the  Atlantic  and  Pacific  slopes  ; 
penetrating  five  canons,  each  of  which  is  a  world's  wonder,  and  no 
two  having  the  same  characteristics  ;  climbing  four  mountain  passes 
by  rail  and  one  by  stage  ;  achieving  grades  of  211  feet  to  the  mile  ; 
reaching  heights  11,000  feet  above  the  sea;  penetrating  gorges 
whose  walls  soar  a  half  mile  in  perpendicular  cliffs  above  the  track  ; 
traversing  fertile  and  picturesque  valleys,  watered  by  historic  rivers  ; 
passing  through  Indian  reservations  and  in  sight  of  frontier  cantonments  of 
National  troops ;  pausing  in  the  midst  of  mining  camps,  where  gold  and  sil- 
ver and  coal  and  copper  are  being  taken  from  subterranean  recesses ;  in  a 
word,  making  the  traveler  familiar  with  peaks  and  plains,  lakes  and  rivers, 
canons  and  passes,  mountains  and  mesas  ;  with  strange  scenes  in  nature, 
aboriginal  types  of  men,  wonders  of  science  and  novel  forms  of  art ;  surely 
no  other  journey  of  a  thousand  miles  can  so  instruct,  entertain,  entrance  and 
thrill  the  traveler  as  this  trip  "  Around  the  Circle." 

Every  mile  of  the  journey  has  its  especial  attraction.  A  thousand  objects 
of  interest  present  themselves  to  view  in  rapid  succession.  A  thousand  novel 
impressions  photograph  themselves  upon  the  mind,  a  thousand  landscapes  of 
wonderful  and  bewitching  beauty  beyond  the  power  of  pen  or  pencil,  or  brush 
or  camera  to  depict,  can  be  seen  from  the  windows  of  the  car.  Colorado  is  a 
land  of  wonders,  a  land  of  surprises,  a  land  of  sharp  and  wonderful  contrasts. 
Take  Toltec  Gorge  as  a  central  point,  and  with  a  radius  of  two  hundred  miles 
describe  a  circle.  Within  the  confines  of  that  magic  ring  will  be  found  more 
grand  and  wonderful  scenery  accessible  by  rail  than  within  any  similar  circle 
swept  anywhere  on  the  surface  of  the  world !  Pilgrimages  are  made  across 
the  seas  to  behold  the  beauties  of  some  one  famed  object    The  Via  Mala 

5 


"Around  the  Circle." 


7 


attracts  one,  Mount  Blanc  another,  the  Colosseum  a  third,  and  the  tourist, 
after  all  his  great  expenditure  of  time  and  money,  comes  away  with  one 
impression. 

It  ought  to  be  the  fashion  for  Americans  to  see  something  of  their  own 
country  before  they  rush  across  the  ocean  to  gaze  at  the  wonders  ot  the  Old 
World.  It  is  a  good  omen  that  many  Americans  appreciate  this  fact  and  are 
turning  their  attention  to  the  unsurpassed  scenery  of  their  native  land.  The 
"  Via  Mala"  is  dwarfed  into  insignificance  when  compared  with  the  "  Royal 
Gorge."  The  hundreds  of  peaks  among  the  Rockies,  reaching  an  altitude  of 
over  fourteen  thousand  feet,  should  compensate  one  for  the  solitary  grandeur 
of  "Mount  Blanc,"  while  the  ruins  of  the  "  Cliff  Dwellings  "  tell  of  a  race 
older  than  that  which  built  the  "  Colosseum." 

It  would  be  impossible  within  the  pages  allotted  for  this  book  to  give  an 
adequate  description  of  even  half  the  noteworthy  things  to  be  seen  in  a  jour- 
ney "  Around  the  Circle."  All  that  can  be  attempted  is  briefly  to  charac- 
terize a  few  of  the  most  remarkable  objects  of  interest,  objects  which  deserve 
to  rank  with  the  greatest  natural  attractions  of  the  world,  and  most  of  which 
have  already  become  known  as  marvels,  to  behold  which  would  amply  repay 
a  journey  across  the  continent. 

The  trip  naturally  begins  at  Denver,  the  great  railroad  center  of  Colorado, 
and  a  city  of  more  than  ordinary  attractiveness. 

For  a  hundred  and  twenty  miles  the  railroad  extending  to  the  south 
follows  the  front  range  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  which  is  in  plain  view  on  the 
right  and  to  the  west.  After  Denver  has  been  left  behind,  the  tourist  can 
see  from  the  car  window  the  snow- covered  pinnacles  of  Long's,  James', 
Gray's  and  Pike's  Peaks  standing  in  a  wilderness  of  lesser  mountains.  Soon 
a  remarkable  promontory  rising  from  the  summit  of  a  conical  hill  and  pre- 
senting the  appearance  of  an  ancient  round  tower,  attracts  the  tourist's 
attention.  This  is  Castle  Rock,  under  whose  battlements  nestles  a  pictur- 
esque village  of  the  same  name.  Beyond  Castle  Rock  the  country  becomes 
more  broken,  the  ascent  being  now  begun  at  what  is  known  as  the  Divide,  a 
range  of  hills  extending  eastward  into  the  plains  and  rising  to  an  elevation  of 
7,500  feet.  Curious  formations  of  sandstone  frequently  occur,  the  most  nota- 
ble of  which  is  called  Casa  Blanca,  and  can  be  seen  on  the  right  between 
Greenland  station  and  Palmer  Lake.  This  enormous  monolith  is  a  thousand 
feet  in  length  and  two  hundred  feet  high,  and  on  account  of  its  size,  its  snow- 
white  walls  and  its  castellated  appearance,  can  hardly  fail  to  attract  atten- 
tion. On  the  summit  of  the  Divide  is  Palmer  Lake,  a  lovely  little  sheet  of 
water,  so  equally  poised  that  its  waters  flow  through  outlets  northward  into 
the  Platte  and  southward  into  the  Arkansas.  Here  has  been  established  a 
pleasant  summer  resort,  and  here  also  is  Glen  Park,  where  assemblies  are 


"Around  the  Circle." 


9 


held  each  summer,  modeled  on  those  of  the  well-known  Chautauqua.  Be- 
yond Palmer  Lake,  on  both  sides  of  the  track,  may  be  seen  wonderful  forma- 
tions of  brilliant  red  sandstone,  taking  the  form  of  castles,  fortifications  and 
towers.  One  of  the  most  striking  of  these  has  been  named  Phoebe's  Arch, 
being  a  great  castle-like  upthrust  of  glowing  red  rock,  through  which  there  is  a 
perfect  natural  archway.  The  descent  of  the  Divide  to  Colorado  Springs  is 
through  an  interesting  country,  the  mountains  to  the  west  and  plains  extend- 
ing to  the  east.  As  Colorado  Springs  are  approached,  the  great  gateway  to  the 
Garden  of  the  Gods  can  be  seen  to  the  right,  and  Pike's  Peak,  rising  to  an 
altitude  ot  14,147  feet,  its  summit  white  with  snow,  attracts  instant  attention. 
A  side  trip  can  here  be  taken,  at  nominal  expense,  to  Manitou  Springs,  five 
miles  distant,  the  famous  watering  place  of  the  west,  a  pleasure  resort  pos- 
sessing wonderful  effervescent  and  medicinal  springs,  and  surrounded  by  more 
objects  of  scenic  interest  than  any  resort  of  a  like  character  in  the  old  or  new 
world,  including  "  Garden  of  the  Gods,"  "  Glen  Eyre,"  "  Red  Rock  Canon," 
"Crystal  Park,"  "Ruxton's  Glen,"  "William's  Canon,"  "Manitou  Grand 
Caverns,"  "  Cave  of  the  Winds,"  "  Ute  Pass,"  "Rainbow  Falls,"  "Bear 
Creek  Canon,"  ."  Cheyenne  Mountain,"  "Pike's  Peak,"  and  hundreds  of 
others,  to  name  which  space  is  lacking. 

The  cogwheel  railroad  to  the  summit  of  Pike's  Peak  is  now  completed  and 
in  operation,  and  is  the  most  novel  railway  in  the  world.  When  it  reaches 
its  objective  point  above  the  clouds,  at  a  height  of  14,147  feet  above  sea  level, 
it  renders  almost  insignificant  by  comparison  the  famous  cogway  up  Mount 
Washington,  and  the  inclined  railway  up  the  Rhigi  in  Switzerland. 

The  route  is  the  most  direct  possible,  and  about  nine  miles  in  length. 
The  track  is  the  same  as  that  of  the  Mount  Washington  line,  standard  gauge, 
with  an  eight-inch  cast-steel  cog  rail.  The  cars  are  set  on  low  trucks  to  pre- 
vent them  from  becoming  top-heavy  on  curves  or  in  a  high  wind.  This  is 
almost  an  unnecessary  precaution,  as  it  is  not  expected  to  make  the  ascent 
in  less  than  two  hours.  On  the  ascent  the  cars  are  pushed  by  the  engine, 
but  on  the  descent  the  locomotive  is  placed  in  front.  The  engine  achieves 
the  tremendous  grades  by  means  of  a  cog  wheel,  which  fits  into  the  cog  rail. 
This  mountain  road  is  a  great  attraction,  added  to  the  many  which  already 
render  Manitou  the  greatest  summer  resort  of  the  mid-continental  region. 

The  run  from  Colorado  Springs  to  Pueblo  is  down  the  valley  of  a  pretty 
little  stream,  the  Fountaine  qui  Bouille,  along  whose  banks  are  situated  rich 
farms,  or  as  they  are  universally  termed  in  the  west,  "  ranches,"  on  which 
large  crops  are  grown  through  the  medium  of  irrigation.  A  hundred  miles 
to  the  westward  may  be  seen  the  faint  blue  outlines  of  the  Greenhorn  range 
of  mountains,  while  to  the  eastward  stretch  the  plains,  the  view  of  which  is 
limited  only  by  the  horizon.    Pueblo  is  the  great  manufacturing  city  of  cen- 


"Around  the  Circle." 


tral  Colorado.  It  has  one  of  the  largest  steel  manufactories  in  the  world, 
and  a  number  of  extensive  smelters.  Its  close  proximity  to  coal  and  iron 
mines,  and  the  fact  that  it  has  become  a  railroad  center  of  much  importance, 
makes  the  future  of  the  city  exceedingly  bright  in  promise.  With  a  popula- 
tion of  over  20,000,  constantly  increasing,  and  with  the  energy  and  push  of  its 
citizens,  it  cannot  fail  of  achieving  the  greatest  prosperity. 

From  Pueblo,  120  miles  distant  from  Denver,  the  journey  is  continued  to 
the  south,  still  across  a  level  country,  and  to  the  left  the  Spanish  peaks  soon 
rise  to  view.  These  mountains  possess  a  peculiar  attraction,  rising,  as  they 
do,  directly  from  the  plain  in  symmetrical,  conical  outlines,  and  reaching  an 
altitude  respectively  of  13,620  and  12,720  feet.  The  Indians,  with  a  touch  of 
instinctive  poetry,  named  these  mountains  "  Wahatoya,"  or  Twin  Breasts. 

Shortly  after  sighting  the  Spanish  Peaks,  the  ascent  of  Veta  Pass  is  begun 
The  ascent  of  this  famous  pass  is  one  of  the  great  engineering  achieve- 
ments ot  the  Denver  &  Rio  Grande  Railroad.  The  line  follows  the  ravine 
formed  by  a  little  stream,  La  Veta  Mountain  rising  to  the  right.  At  the  head 
of  this  gulch  is  the  wonderful  "  Mule-Shoe  Curve,"  the  sharpest  curve  of  the 
kind  known  in  railroad  engineering.  In  the  center  of  the  bend  is  a  bridge, 
and  the  sparkling  waters  of  the  mountain  stream  can  be  seen  flashing  and 
foaming  in  their  rocky  bed  below.  Standing  on  the  rear  platform  of  the  Pull- 
man car  as  the  train  rounds  the  curve,  the  tourist  can  see  the  fireman  and 
engineer  attending  to  their  duties.  From  this  point  the  ascent  of  Dump 
Mountain  begins,  rocks  and  precipitous  escarpments  of  shaley  soil  to  the 
right  and  perpendicular  cliffs  and  chasms  to  the  left  The  ascent  is  slowly 
made,  two  great  Mogul  engines  urging  their  iron  sinews  to  the  giant  task. 
The  view  to  the  eastward  is  one  of  great  extent  and  magnificence.  The  plains 
stretch  onward  to  the  dim  horizon  line  like  a  gently  undulating  ocean,  from 
which  rise  the  twin  cones  of  "  Wahatoya,"  strangely  fascinating  in  their  sym- 
metrical beauty.  At  the  summit  of  the  pass  the  railroad  reaches  an  elevation 
of  9,393  feet  above  the  sea. 

Veta  Mountain  is  to  the  right  as  the  ascent  of  the  pass  is  made,  and  rises 
with  smooth  sides  and  splintered  pinnacles  to  a  height  of  1 1,176  feet  above  the 
sea  level.  The  stupendous  proportions  of  this  mountain,  the  illimitable  ex- 
panse of  planes,  the  symmetrical  cones  of  the  Spanish  Peaks,  present  a  pic- 
ture upon  which  it  is  a  never-ceasing  delight  for  the  eye  to  dwell.  The  train 
rolls  steadily  forward  on  its  winding  course,  at  last  reaching  the  apex,  glides 
into  the  timber  and  halts  at  the  handsome  stone  station  over  9,000  feet  above 
the  level  of  the  distant  sea.  The  downward  journey  is  past  Sierra  Blanca  and 
old  Fort  Garland,  and  through  that  pastoral  and  picturesque  valley  known  as 
San  Luis  Park. 

At  Placer  one  can  say  that  the  descent  of  Veta  Pass  has  been  accom- 


"Around  the  Circle." 


plished,  though  it  is  still  all  down  grade  to  Alamosa.  This  little  town  is  situ- 
ated on  the  eastern  border  of  the  San  Luis  Valley  and  at  the  western  extrem- 
ity of  La  Veta  Pass. 

From  Alamosa  station  a  magnificent  view  of  Blanca  is  obtained,  and  this 
majestic  mountain,  with  its  triple  peaks  capped  with  snow,  and  two-thirds 
of  its  height  above  timber  line,  presents  a  noble  and  impressive  spectacle. 
To  the  north  and  south,  silhouetted  against  a  sky  of  perfect  azure,  are  the 
serrated  pinnacles  of  the  Sangre  de  Christo  range.  It  would  be  difficult  to 
find,  even  in  this  land  of  peaks,  a  more  impressive  mountain  view  than  that 
obtained  during  the  traversing  of  the  San  Luis  Valley,  on  the  eastern  rim  of 
which  Garland  Station,  the  site  of  old  Fort  Garland,  rests.  Here  is  a  park 
7,500  feet  above  sea  level,  surrounded  on  all  sides  by  ranges  of  rugged  mount- 
ains whose  summits  are  whitened  with  perpetual  snow.  San  Luis  Park 
has  an  area  larger  than  Connecticut,  watered  plentifully  by  mountain  streams 
and  traversed  by  the  historic  and  beautiful  Rio  Grande  del  Norte.  The  soil 
of  this  valley  is  fertile,  and  through  the  medium  of  irrigation  the  park  is 
rapidly  becoming  a  great  agricultural  region. 

From  Pueblo  the  line  diverges  and  the  tourist  may  go  via  Veta  Pass  as 
described  above,  or  to  Salida,  and  thence  through  the  Poncha  Pass  to  Villa 
Grove  and  down  through  the  beautiful  San  Luis  Valley  to  Alamosa,  noted 
for  its  fine  farms  and  phenomenal  yield  of  agricultural  products.  From  the 
point  named  above  there  is  a  tangent  of  fifty-two  miles  and  the  San  Luis 
Valley  portion  is  a  straight  line  through  one  of  the  most  fruitful  and  beauti- 
ful sections  of  the  State. 

From  Alamosa  a  delightful  side  trip  can  be  taken  to  the  Hot  Springs  at 
Wagon  Wheel  Gap,  and  to  the  new  and  already  famous  mining  camp, 
Creede,  for  which  a  reduced  rate  will  be  given.  A  word  about  this  wonderful 
health  and  pleasure  resort  will  not  be  out  of  place  here.  As  the  Gap  is  ap- 
proached the  valley  narrows  until  the  river  is  hemmed  in  between  massive 
walls  of  solid  rock  which  rise  to  such  a  height  on  either  side  as  to  throw  the 
passage  into  twilight  shadow.  The  river  rushes  roaring  down  over  gleaming 
gravel  or  precipitous  ledges.  Progressing,  the  scene  becomes  wilder  and 
more  romantic,  until  at  last  the  waters  of  the  Rio  Grande  pour  through  a  cleft 
in  the  rocks  just  wide  enough  to  allow  the  construction  of  a  road  along  the 
river's  edge.  On  the  right,  as  one  enters,  tower  cliffs  to  a  tremendous  height, 
suggestive  in  their  appearance  of  the  Palisades  of  the  Hudson.  On  the  left 
rises  the  round  shoulder  of  a  massive  mountain.  The  vast  wall  is  unbroken 
for  more  than  half  a  mile,  its  crest  presenting  an  almost  unserrated  sky  line. 
Once  through  the  Gap,  the  traveler,  looking  toward  the  south,  sees  a  valley 
encroached  upon  and  surrounded  by  hills 

"Bathed  in  the  tenderest  purple  of  distance, 
Tinted  and  shadowed  by  pencils  of  air." 


SOUTH  WILLOW  CANON,  CREEDE,  COLO. 


£*  Around  the  Circle." 


15 


Here  is  an  old  stage  station,  a  primitive  and  picturesque  structure  of  hewn 
logs,  made  cool  and  inviting  by  wide-roofed  verandahs.  Not  a  hundred  feet 
away  rolls  the  Rio  Grande  river,  swarming  with  trout.  A  drive  of  a  mile 
along  a  winding  road,  each  turn  in  which  reveals  new  scenic  beauties,  brings 
the  tourist  to  the  famous  springs.  The  medicinal  qualities  of  the  waters, 
both  of  the  cold  and  hot  springs,  have  been  thoroughly  tested  and  proved 
equal,  if  not  superior,  to  the  Hot  Springs  of  Arkansas. 

Ten  miles  beyond  Wagon  Wheel  Gap  is  Creede;  nothing  yesterday,  a 
city  of  seven  thousand  people  to-day.  Here  is  Colorado's  newest  and  richest 
mining  camp,  bustling  with  all  the  activity  of  an  older  eastern  city.  Situated 
in  the  heart  of  a  canon  and  extending  through  it  and  widening  out  on  to  the 
less  precipitous  hills  below,  composed  of  buildings  of  all  kinds,  from  the 
temporary  "  shack"  of  the  prospector  to  the  more  pretentious  brick  store. 
The  mountain  side  dotted  with  innumerable  prospect  holes,  with  an  occa- 
sional large  building  of  unpainted  pine,  rising  from  which  is  a  volume  of 
steam  and  smoke  giving  ocular  evidence  of  the  presence  of  a  mine  of  more 
than  ordinary  interest  and  value.  To  the  tourist  desiring  to  combine  busi- 
ness with  pleasure,  here  is  the  opportunity  to  buy  what  at  present  seems  only 
"a  hole  in  the  ground,"  but  which  may  some  day  develop  into  a  mint  within 
itself. 

Leaving  Alamosa  and  continuing  the  circle  tour,  after  crossing  San  Luis 
Park,  and  just  Before  reaching  Toltec  Tunnel,  a  sharp  curve  takes  the  train 
into  a  nook  among  the  hills.  To  the  left  are  great  monumental  and  fantastic 
forms  of  rock,  while  to  the  right  are  cliffs  rising  to  a  height  of  five  or  six  hun- 
dred feet  above  the  track.  From  the  quaint  and  curious  formations  which  rise 
to  the  left  as  this  bend  is  rounded,  it  has  been  named  Phantom  Curve.  In 
half  an  hour  Toltec  Tunnel  is  reached,  the  great  peculiarity  of  which  is  that 
it  pierces  the  top  of  a  mountain  instead  of  its  base.  For  six  hundred  feet  it 
has  been  blasted  through  the  living  rock,  and  such  is  its  solidity  that  no  ma- 
sonry is  needed  to  support  the  superincumbent  rock  masses  above.  When 
the  train  emerges  from  the  tunnefit  rolls  out  upon  a  bridge  of  trestlework  set 
like  a  balcony  against  the  wail  of  stone.  Beneath,  to  the  left,  is  Toltec 
Gorge.  The  traveler  looks  down  fifteen  hundred  feet  and,  glancing  upward, 
sees  the  opposite  wall  of  the  gorge  rising  a  thousand  feet  above  him.  The 
scene  is  one  of  the  most  thrilling  and  unique  in  the  whole  journey  "  Around 
the  Circle."  Below,  at  the  bottom  of  the  gorge,  swirls  and  dashes  a  little 
stream,  whose  waters  are  churned  into  snow-white  foam,  and  the  noise  of 
whose  progress  comes  faintly  to  the  ear,  borne  upward  from  those  tremendous 
depths. 

An  object  of  interest  to  all  visitors  to  Toltec  Gorge  is  the  Garfield  Memo- 
rial, a  beautiful  monument  of  granite,  raised  by  the  National  Association  of 


"  Around  the  Circle  " 


General  Passenger  Agents,  who  held  service  at  this  spot  on  the  26th  day  of 
September,  1881,  at  the  time  President  Garfield  was  being  buried  at  Cleve- 
land, Ohio. 

At  Cumbres,  the  summit  of  the  Cumbres  range  of  mountains,  is  reached 
an  elevation  of  10,115  feet,  and  the  journey  of  the  descent  is  a  trip  fraught 
with  great  variety  of  scenery  and  abounding  in  interest.  Here  may  be  seen 
mountain  meadows  lush  with  vegetation,  the  surrounding  hills  being  heavily 
timbered  and  abounding  in  game. 

At  Ignacio  the  Indian  reservation  is  entered,  and  the  rude  tepees  of  the 
Southern  Utes  can  be  seen  pitched  along  the  banks  of  the  Rio  de  las  Florida. 
Occasionally  a  glimpse  can  be  caught  of  a  stolid  brave,  tricked  out  in  all  his 
savage  finery,  gazing  fixedly  at  the  train  as  it  speeds  by.  Frequently  there  is 
quite  a  little  group  of  these  aborigines  at  the  station,  and  they  are  always 
ready  to  exchange  bows  and  arrows,  trophies  of  the  chase,  or  specimens  of 
their  rude  handiwork  in  return  for  very  hard  cash. 

From  Durango  the  tourist  has  the  choice  of  two  routes  to  complete  the 
"Circle"  tour;  either  via  the  Rio  Grande  Southern  Railroad,  through  the 
Mancos  Valley,  the  Lost  Canon,  the  Valley  of  the  Dolores  and  the  Dolores 
Canon  to  Rico,  over  the  Lizard  Head  Pass  by  Trout  Lake  and  Telluride,  down 
the  San  Miguel  and  Leopard  Creek  to  Ridgway  ;  or  via  the  Denver  &  Rio 
Grande,  through  the  Animas  Canon  to  Silverton,  over  the  Rainbow  Route 
(Silverton  Railroad)  to  Ironton,  and  thence  over  the  famous  Ironton  and  Ouray 
Stage  Road  to  Ouray. 

RIO  GRANDE  SOUTHERN  ROUTE. 

Leaving  Durango  via  the  Rio  Grande  Southern  line,  the  tourist  is  whisked 
across  the  Rio  de  Las  Animas  up  Lightner  Creek,  past  the  silver  and  gold 
smelters  with  their  seething  furnaces  and  smoke  and  dust-begrimed  work- 
men, and  shortly  past  the  famous  coal  banks  where  the  black  diamond  is  dug 
from  the  bowels  of  Mother  Earth,  and  from  there  hauled  to  the  smelters 
where  it  is  used  for  the  reduction  and  refining  of  its  more  exalted,  but  not 
more  useful  brethren. 

Up  through  the  valley  the  train  speeds  along  among  huge  pines  which  thus 
far  have  escaped  the  woodman's  axe,  and  which  will  be  free  from  such  inva- 
sion as  long  as  Uncle  Sam  claims  this  particular  spot  as  the  especial  reserva- 
tion for  the  military  post  at  old  Fort  Lewis. 

From  Fort  Lewis  the  line  passes  through  seemingly  endless  forests  of  pine 
trees,  and  after  the  reservation  is  passed  an  occasional  saw-mill  is  sighted 
from  its  emitting  unearthly  screeches,  which  the  knowing  ones  say  is  merely 
the  head  sawyer  sharpening  up     Descending  the  mountain  into  the  valley, 


CLIFF  DWELLERS 


"  Around  the  Circle.' 


19 


the  beholder  looks  out  on  a  broad  expanse  of  fertile,  well-watered  country, 
surrounded  on  all  sides  by  snow-capped  mountains,  and  dotted  with  the 
rancheros  of  the  hardy  pioneer,  who  has  been  well  repaid  for  his  daring  in 
locating  in  this  far-away  but  beautiful  valley,  by  its  productiveness,  and  now 
that  the  railroad,  that  greatest  of  all  civilizers,  has  come,  he  has  abundant 
opportunities  for  the  disposition  of  his  produce. 

In  the  center  of  this  valley  lies  Mancos  station,  which  is  the  junction  with 
the  main  line  of  the  proposed  extension  of  this  road  into  Arizona. 

To  the  south  of  Mancos  station,  within  a  day's  ride,  and  easily  accessible, 
are  the  ruins  of  the  strange  habitations  of  an  extinct  and  mysterious  race 
known  as  the  Cliff  Dwellers.  To  those  seeking  curiosities  and  wonders,  the 
great  Canon  of  the  Mancos,  the  great  Montezuma  Valley,  the  McElmo 
Canon,  the  Lower  Animas  Valley  and  the  Chaco  Canon  are  the  wonderlands 
of  the  world.  They  contain  thousands  of  homes,  and  a  town  of  the  ancient 
race  of  Mound  Builders  and  "Cliff  Dwellers,"  that  has  attracted  the 
curious  ever  since  the  discovery  of  America.  The  great  Mancos  Canon  con- 
tains hundreds  of  these  homes  which  were  built  and  occupied  hundreds  of 
years  ago.  Yet  many  of  them  are  in  a  good  state  of  preservation,  and  in 
them  have  been  found  hundreds  of  specimens  of  pottery,  and  implements  of 
husbandry  and  warfare.  This  canon  is  twenty  miles  south  of  Mancos,  over  a 
good  wagon  road.  The  canon  is  cut  through  Mesa  Verda,  a  distance  of 
thirty  miles,  and  the  walls  on  either  side  rise  to  a  perpendicular  height  of  two 
thousand  feet.  These  cliff  dwellings  are  built  in  the  sides  of  this  canon,  as 
shown  in  the  illustration.  Fifteen  miles  farther  west  from  the  Mancos  is  sit- 
uated the  great  Montezuma  Valley,  where  thousands  of  fine  specimens  of  pot- 
tery have  been  found  among  the  ruins  of  that  ancient  people.  On  the  west 
side  of  this  valley  is  the  great  McElmo  Canon,  also  full  of  the  ancient  homes 
of  the  "  Cliff  Dwellers."  Thirty-five  miles  south  of  Durango,  in  the  valley  of 
the  Animas,  are  some  extensive  ruins  of  the  Aztecs,  and  fifty  miles  further 
south  are  the  wonderful  ruins  in  the  Chaco  Canon.  These  ancient  Pueblos 
are,  without  doubt,  the  most  extensive  and  the  best  preserved  of  any  in  the 
United  States.  Of  these  Prof.  Hayden,  in  his  report  of  the  Geological  Survey 
of  the  United  States  for  the  year  1866,  says:  "  The  great  ruins  in  the  Chaco 
Canon  are  pre-eminently  the  finest  examples  of  the  works  of  the  unknown 
builders  to  be  found  north  of  the  seat  of  ancient  Aztec  Empire  in  Mexico." 
There  are  eleven  extensive  Pueblos  in  this  canon,  nearly  all  in  a  good  state 
of  preservation,  and  their  appearance  indicates  that  they  were  once  the  home 
of  fifteen  hundred  to  three  thousand  people  each.  They  are  the  most  ac- 
cessible from  Mancos  of  any  point  on  the  line  of  railroads.  From  the  thousands 
of  ruins  of  cities,  towns  and  families  found  throughout  this  great  San  Juan 
Valley,  it  is  evident  that  once  this  great  valley  was  the  home  of  hundreds  of 


"  Around  the  Circle.'* 


21 


thousands  of  this  extinct  race.  That  they  were  a  peaceful  and  agricultural 
race  of  people  is  evidenced  by  the  large  number  of  their  implements  of  hus- 
bandry and  specimens  of  corn  and  beans  found  in  these  ruins,  besides  irrigat- 
ing ditches  and  reservoirs  for  the  storage  of  water. 

Leaving  Mancos,  the  road  winds  up  the  sloping  sides  of  a  flat-topped 
mountain,  and  there  on  its  summit,  among  huge  pines  centuries  old,  bubbles 
up  a  clear,  cold  spring  of  sparkling  water,  forming  the  stream  that  flows  down 
through  the  beautiful  Lost  Canon,  and  is  called  by  the  unpoetic  name  of 
"  Lost  Canon  Creek." 

Lost  Canon  is  a  novelty  in  itself,  as  its  sides  are  densely  wooded  and  softly 
carpeted  with  a  thick  bed  of  moss  and  leaves,  beautifully  colored  by  millions 
of  Colorado  wild  flowers  whose  delicate  beauty  is  unrivaled. 

Emerging  from  Lost  Canon  the  traveler  is  whirled  up  to  the  beautiful  val- 
ley of  the  Dolores  River,  with  its  many  ranches  and  farms,  past  the  town  of  the 
same  name.  Off  to  the  left,  flowing  to  the  eastward,  comes  bubbling  down  the 
mountain  side  into  the  larger  river,  the  West  Dolores,  and  no  more  famous  or 
prolific  trout  stream  exists  than  this. 

Continuing  on  up  the  main  river,  the  valley  begins  to  narrow  down,  until  we 
are  once  more  within  the  walls  of  a  canon  which  takes  its  name  from  the 
stream  flowing  through  it.  While  this  canon  is  not  particularly  deep,  its  nat- 
ural beauties  are  manifold  and  are  sure  to  make  a  lasting  and  delightful  im- 
pression on  the  beholder. 

Rushing  out  of  the  canon  the  tourist  is  now  landed  at  Rico.  Rico  is  one 
of  the  most  important  mining  towns  of  the  State,  whose  mines  dot  the  moun- 
tain sides,  and  whose  product  is  packed  in  the  cars  on  the  backs  of  the  ever- 
patient  and  faithful  burro,  without  which  no  mining  camp  can  be  complete. 
The  town  is  located  in  what  was  at  one  time  the  crater  of  a  large  volcano. 
Precipitous  mountains  with  poetic  names  arise  upon  all  sides  of  it,  gradually 
widening,  until  by  describing  a  circle  of  their  summits  they  appear  as  the  top 
of  a  huge  funnel.  Among  them  is  the  famous  Telescope  Mountain,  a  freak  of 
nature  only  to  be  seen  to  form  a  proper  realization  of  the  aptness  of  its  name. 
The  place  has  much  of  historic  interest,  as  evidences  of  early  Spanish  dis- 
coveries are  found  on  many  sides. 

Leaving  Rico,  the  line  continues  up  the  Dolores,  which  grows  smaller  and 
smaller,  until  it  becomes  a  mere  silver  thread  winding  in  and  out  among  huge 
rocks  and  boulders.  Thirteen  miles  north  of  Rico,  and  after  climbing  many 
miles  of  three  and  four  per  cent,  grades,  the  summit  of  the  Lizard  Head  Pass 
is  reached  at  an  elevation  of  nearly  i  i,oco  feet.  From  the  summit  and  to  the 
left  will  be  seen  the  Lizard  Head,  a  peculiar  rock  formation  capping  a  tall, 
bare  mountain.  This  rock  derives  its  name  from  its  resemblaace  to  the  head 
of  a  mountain  lizard,  though  at  the  same  time  it  may  be  said  to  resemble  the 
shaft  of  some  large  monument. 


"Around  the  Circle." 


23 


Descending  the  pass  through  the  mountain  gorges  over  rushing  mountain 
streams,  one  finds  one's  self  at  Trout  Lake.  No  more  graphic  description  of 
this  sheet  of  beautiful  blue  water  can  be  given  than  a  verse  from  a  poem  by 
"  H.  H." 

"  The  mountain's  wall  in  the  water  ; 

It  looks  like  a  great  blue  cup  ; 
And  the  sky  looks  like  another 

Turned  over,  bottom  side  up." 

Here  the  sport-inclined  tourist  may  spend  a  few  days,  for  the  lake  is  in- 
habited by  thousands  and  thousands  of  mountain  trout. 

Shortly  after  leaving  Trout  Lake,  the  famous  Ophir  Loop  is  passed.  Here 
the  skill  of  the  engineer  was  taxed  to  its  utmost,  for  the  track  winds  in  zig-zags 
down  the  mountain  side,  rushing  through  a  deep  cut  here,  over  a  mountain 
torrent  and  a  high  bridge  there,  darting  around  sharp  curves,  in  and  out  of 
snowsheds,  until  on  the  opposite  mountain  and  high  above  us  is  to  be  seen  a 
line  of  freshly-turned  earth,  which  the  knowing  ones  say  is  the  track  over 
which  we  have  just  passed. 

From  Vance  Junction,  a  side  trip  of  ten  miles,  which  will  well  repay  the 
tourist,  can  be  made  to  Telluride,  a  mining  town  of  some  2,500  inhabitants, 
nestling  among  snow-capped  mountains,  rising  to  stupendous  heights  and  rich 
in  gold  and  silver. 

From  Vance  Junction  the  journey  is  continued  down  the  San  Miguel  River, 
past  Placerville,  until  the  river  leaves  the  rail,  and  again  we  commence  to  go 
up ;  this  time  over  the  Dallas  Divide.  This  pass  resembles  Marshall  Pass, 
though  not  quite  so  long.  After  reaching  the  summit,  the  line  runs  down  the 
eastern  slope  along  Leopard  Creek,  high  above  it  on  the  moutain  side,  giving 
a  most  magnificent  view  of  the  Uncomphagre  Range  to  the  south  with  its 
gentle  slopes  softly  colored  by  the  deep,  dark  foliage  of  dense  pine  and  fir 
forests,  gradually  rising  until  the  mountains  develop  into  a  huge  mass  of 
shattered  pinnacles,  their  topmost  points  covered  with  the  everlasting  snow. 

Arriving  at  Ridgway,  a  city  of  some  1,500  inhabitants,  the  journey  is 
again  resumed  on  the  original  route  via  the  Denver  &  Rio  Grande. 

THE  RAINBOW  ROUTE. 

From  Durango,  the  metropolis  of  the  San  Juan,  to  Silverton  the  scenery  is 
of  surpassing  grandeur  and  beauty.  The  railroad  follows  up  the  course  of  the 
Animas  River  (to  which  the  Spaniards  gave  the  musical  but  melancholy  title 
of  "  Rio  de  las  Animas  Perdidas,"  or  River  of  Lost  Souls),  until  the  pictur- 
esque mining  town  of  Silverton  is  reached.  The  valley  of  the  Animas  is 
traversed  before  the  canon  is  reached,  and  the  traveler's  eyes  are  delighted 


"  Around  the  Circle." 


with  succeeding  scenes  of  sylvan  beauty.  To  the  right  is  the  river,  beyond 
which  rise  the  hills;  to  the  leit  are  mountains,  increasing  in  rugged  contour  as 
the  advance  is  made  ;  between  the  track  and  the  river  are  cultivated  fields 
and  cosy  farmhouses,  while  evidences  of  peace,  prosperity  and  plenty  are  to 
be  seen  on  every  hand.  Nine  miles  above  Durango,  Trimble  Hot  Springs 
are  reached.  The  spacious  hotel  stands  within  a  hundred  yards  of  the  road 
to  the  left  of  the  track.  Here  are  medicinal  hot  springs  of  great  curative 
value,  and  here, in  the  season,  gather  invalids  and  pleasure  seekers  to  drink 
the  waters  and  enjoy  the  delights  of  this  charming  resort.  Leaving  the 
springs  behind,  the  train  speeds  up  the  valley,  which  gradually  narrows  as 
the  advance  is  made;  the  ascending  grade  becomes  steeper,  the  hills  close  in, 
and  soon  the  view  is  restricted  to  the  rocky  gorge  within  whose  depths  the 
raging  waters  of  the  Animas  sway  and  swirl. 

Animas  Canon  has  characteristics  peculiarly  its  own.  The  railroad  does 
not  follow  the  bed  of  the  stream,  but  clings  to  the  cliffs  midway  of  their 
height;  and  a  glance  from  the  car  window  gives  one  the  impression  of  a  view 
from  a  balloon.  Below,  a  thousand  feet,  are  the  waters  of  the  river— in  places, 
white  with  foam;  in  quiet  coves,  green  as  ocean's  depths.  Above,  five  hun- 
dred feet,  climb  the  combing  cliffs,  to  which  cling  pines  and  hemlocks.  The 
canon  here  is  a  mere  fissure  in  the  mountain's  heart,  so  narrow  that  one  can 
easily  toss  a  stone  across  and  send  it  bounding  down  the  side  of  the  opposing 
rock  wall  until  it  falls  into  the  waters  of  the  river  coursing  through  the  abyss 
below.  Emerging  from  this  wonderful  chasm,  the  bed  of  the  gorge  rises  until 
the  roadway  is  but  a  few  feet  above  the  level  of  the  stream.  The  close,  con- 
fining and  towering  walls  of  rock  are  replaced  by  mountains  of  supreme 
height.  The  Needles,  which  are  among  the  most  peculiar  and  striking  of  the 
Rockies,  thrust  their  sharp  and  splintered  peaks  into  the  regions  of  eternal 
frost. 

Elk  Park  is  a  quiet  little  nook  in  the  midst  of  the  range,  with  vistas  of 
meadows  and  groves  of  pines,  a  spot  which  would  furnish  the  artist  many  a 
subject  for  hiscanvass. 

At  the  end  of  Elk  Park  stands  Garfield  Peak,  lifting  its  summit  a  mile 
above  the  track.  Beyond  are  marshaled  the  everlasting  mountains,  and 
through  them  for  miles  extends,  in  varying  beauty  and  grandeur,  the  canon 
of  the  Animas.  Frequent  waterfalls  glitter  in  the  sunlight,  leaping  from  crag 
to  crag,  only  to  lose  themselves  at  last  in  the  onflowing  river.  Emerging 
finally  from  this  environment  of  crowding  cliffs,  the  train  sweeps  into  Baker's 
Park  and  arrives  at  Silverton  in  the  heart  of  the  San  Juan. 

Silverton  is  interesting,  both  from  its  picturesque  position  and  from  the 
fact  that  it  is  a  mining  town.  The  mountains  by  which  it  is  surrounded  on 
all  sides  are  honeycombed  with  the  shafts  and  tunnels  of  innumerable  mines. 


u  Around  the  Circle." 


27 


Sultan  Mountain,  which  overlooks  the^town,  is  a  noble  and  impressive  eleva- 
tion, and  adds  to  the  grandeur  of  the  scene  by  its  regal  presence. 

From  Silverton  the  journey  "  Around  the  Circle"  is  continued  by  taking 
the  Silverton  Railway,  a  road  constructed  up  the  difficult  grades  of  Red 
Mountain,  and  doing  an  immense  business  in  the  handling  of  ores  which  are 
taken  from  these  rich  deposits  ;  also  employed  in  the  transportation  of  pas- 
sengers. This  wonderful  road  owes  its  construction  to  the  genius,  daring  and 
wealth  of  one  man,  Mr.  Otto  Mears,  who  has  for  years  been  the  "  pathfinder  " 
of  the  San  Juan  region,  building  toll  roads  and  opening  the  gates  of  prosperity 
to  the  many  mining  towns  of  this  mountainous  country.  He  is  the  sole  owner 
of  the  road,  and  has  conquered  engineering  difficulties  of  the  most  astound- 
ing character.  The  line  does  not  as  yet  bridge  the  gap  between  Silverton 
and  Ouray,  and  from  Ironton,  its  terminus,  stages  carry  tourists  over  the 
mountains  to  the  latter  point,  where  the  trip  is  resumed  by  the  Denver  &  Rio 
Grande  Railroad. 

The  stage  ride  forms  one  of  the  most  attractive  features  of  this  most  at- 
tractive journey.  Lasting  only  two  hours,  passing  over  the  summits  of  ranges 
and  through  the  depths  of  canons,  the  tourist  will  find  this  a  welcome  varia- 
tion to  his  method  of  travel  and  a  great  relief  and  recreation.  The  old  fash- 
ioned stage,  with  all  its  romantic  associations,  is  rapidly  becoming  a  thing  of 
the  past.  A  year  or  two  more  and  it  will  have  disappeared,  except  in  rare  in- 
stances, from  Colorado.  Here,  in  the  midst  of  some  of  the  grandest  scenery 
on  the  continent,  the  blue  sky  above  and  the  fresh,  pure,  exhilirating  moun- 
tain air  sending  the  blood  bounding  through  one's  veins,  to  clamber  into  a 
Concord  coach  and  be  whirled  along  a  splendidly-constructed  road,  costing  in 
some  instances  $40,000  a  mile  in  its  construction,  to  behold  the  grandest  of 
Nature's  handiwork,  and  to  be  in  such  close  communion  with  the  everlasting 
hills,  is  surely  a  n6vel  and  delightful  experience. 

The  scenery  on  this  journey  between  Silverton  and  Ouray  is  of  the  great- 
est magnificence.  This  is  especially  true  of  that  portion  of  the  route  trav- 
ersed by  stage.  The  Silverton  and  Ouray  toll  road  has  long  been  noted  for  its 
attractions  in  the  way  of  scenery,  the  triangular  mass  of  Mount  Abram's 
towers  to  the  left,  while  the  road  winds  around  the  curves  of  the  hills  with  the 
sinuosity  of  a  mountain  brook.  The  scene  from  the  bridge  over  Bear  Creek 
is  one  which  once  beheld  can  never  be  forgotten.  Directly  under  the  bridge 
plunges  a  cataract  to  a  depth  of  253  feet,  forming  a  most  noteworthy  and  im- 
pressive scene.  The  toll  road  passes  through  one  of  the  greatest  mining  re- 
gions in  the  world,  and  the  fame  of  Red  Mountain  is  well  deserved  both  from 
the  number  and  richness  of  its  mines.  Before  Ouray  is  reached,  the  road 
passes  through  Uncompahgre  Canon.  Here  the  roadbed  has  been  blasted 
from  the  solid  rock  wall  of  the  gorge,  and  a  scene  similar  in  nature  and  rivaling 
in  grandeur  that  of  Animas  Canon  is  beheld. 


'-Around  the  Circle." 


29 


Ouray  is  one  of  the  most  beautifully  situated  towns  to  be  found  anywhere. 
Its  scenery  is  idyllic.  The  village  is  cradled  in  a  lovely  valley  surrounded  by 
rugged  mountains.  The  situation  of  the  town  is  thus  vividly  described  by 
Ernest  Ingersoll  in  the  "  Crest  of  the  Continent"  :  "  The  valley  in  which  the 
town  is  built  is  at  an  elevation  of  about  7,500  feet  above  the  sea,  and  is  pear- 
shaped,  its  greatest  width  being  not  more  than  half  a  mile,  while  its  length  is 
about  twice  that,  down  to  the  mouth  of  the  canon.  Southward— that  is,  to- 
ward the  heart  of  the  main  range— stand  the  two  great  peaks,  Hardin  and 
Hayden.  Between  is  the  deep  gorge  down  which  the  Uncompahgre  finds  its 
way  ;  but  this  is  hidden  from  view  by  a  ridge  which  walls  in  the  town  and  cuts 
off  all  farther  view  from  it  in  that  direction,  save  where  the  triangular  top  of 
Mount  Abram  peers  over.  Westward  are  grouped  a  series  of  broken  ledges, 
surmounted  by  greater  and  more  rugged  heights.  Down  between  these  and 
the  western  foot  of  Mt.  Hayden  struggles  Canon  Creek  to  join  the  Uncom- 
pahgre, while  Oak  Creek  leaps  down  a  line  of  cataracts  from  a  notch  in  the 
terraced  heights  through  which  the  quadrangular  head  of  White  House  Moun- 
tain becomes  grandly  discernible— the  easternmost  buttress  of  the  wintry 
Sierra  San  Miguel. 

"  At  the  lower  side  of  the  basin,  where  the  path  of  the  river  is  beset  with 
close  canon  walls,  the  cliffs  rise  vertically  from  the  level  of  the  village,  and 
bear  their  forest  growth  many  hundreds  of  eet  above.  These  mighty  walls, 
two  thousand  feet  high  in  some  places,  are  of  metamorphic  rock,  and  their 
even  stratification  simulates  courses  of  well-ordered  masonry.  Stained  by  iron, 
and  probably  also  by  magnese,  they  are  a  deep  red  maroon.  This  color  does 
not  lie  uniformly,  however,  but  is  stonger  in  some  layers  than  in  others,  so 
that  the  whole  face  of  the  cliff  is  banded  horizontally  in  pale  rust  color,  or 
dull  crimson,  or  deep  and  opaque  maroon.  The  western  cliff  is  bare,  but  on 
the  more  frequent  ledges  of  the  eastern  wall  scattered  spruces  grow,  and  add 
to  its  attractiveness.  Yet,  as  though  Nature  meant  to  teach  that  a  bit  of 
motion— a  suggestion  of  glee  was  needed  to  relieve  the  somberness  of  utter 
immobility  and  grandeur,  however  shapely— she  has  led  to  the  sunlight,  by  a 
crevice  in  th*  upper  part  of  the  eastern  wall  that  we  cannot  see,  a  brisk  tor- 
rent draining  the  snowfields  of  some  distant  plateau.  This  little  stream, 
thus  beguiled  by  the  fair  channel  that  led  it  through  the  spruce  woods  above, 
has  no  time  to  think  of  its  fate,  but  is  flung  out  over  the  sheer  precipice 
eighty  feet  into  the  valley  below.  We  see  the  white  ghost  of  its  descend- 
ing, and  always  to  our  ears  is  murmured  the  voice  of  the  Naiads  who  are 
taking  the  breathless  plunge.  Yet  by  what  means  the  stream  reaches  that 
point  from  above  cannot  be  seen,  and  the  picture  is  that  of  a  strong  jet  of 
water  bursting  from  an  orifice  through  the  crimson  wall,  and  falling  into  rain- 
bow-arched mist  and  a  tangle  of  grateful  foliage  that  hides  its  further 
flowing." 


CTIRRECANTI  NEEDLE. 


"  Around  the  Circle." 


3' 


Resuming  the  railroad  journey  at  Ouray,  the  traveler  will  find  much  to 
interest  him  in  the  run  past  Ridgway,  where  the  Rio  Grande  Southern  con- 
nects with  the  Denver  &  Rio  Grande,  to  Montrose,  where  the  main  line  is 
again  reached,  and,  with  faces  turned  once  more  to  the  eastward,  the  home- 
ward segment  of  the  "  circle"  is  entered  upon,  and  the  greatest  wonders  of 
all  this  wonderful  journey  lie  before.  From  Cerro  Summit  a  fine  view  can  be 
had  of  the  Uncompahgre  Valley,  its  river,  and  the  distant  peaks  of  the  San 
Juan  and  Uncompahgre  ranges  of  mountains.  Cimarron  Canon  is  entered 
shortly  after  leaving  Cerro  Summit,  the  road  following  this  cahofi  down  Cim- 
arron Creek  to  where  it  empties  into  the  Gunnison  river.  Here  begins  the 
tourist's  experience  in  the  world-renowned  Black  Canon  of  the  Gunnison. 
The  name  is  a  misnomer.  There  is  nothing  black  about  the  canon  except 
the  shadows  of  the  towering  granite  walls.  The  cliffs  themselves  show  bright 
and  happy  colors.  Gay  contrasts  of  pink  and  blue,  bright  complements  of 
red  and  maroon,  all  shades  blended  and  differentiated,  dashed  on  here  and 
there  as  with  the  broad,  free-handed  sweep  of  some  master  scenic  painter. 
The  scene  is  varied,  kaleidoscopic,  constantly  changing.  Here  the  train 
rolls  along  between  frowning  and  exalted  walls  ;  there  a  stream  of  water, 
Chippeta  Falls,  white  as  wool,  pitches  from  the  brow  of  a  precipice  two 
thousand  feet  above  ;  yonder  a  side  canon  yawns  with  capacious  mouth  as  if 
to  engulf  us.  Now  we  are  in  a  spacious  amphitheater,  in  the  center  of  which 
stands  a  tremendous  monument  of  solid  stone,  a  spire  graceful  as  if  hewn  by 
the  hand  of  a  Gothic  builder,  and  terminating  in  a  sky-piercing  pinnacle. 
This  is  the  famed  "  Currecanti  Needle."  Thus  for  twenty  miles  the  ever- 
changing  variety  of  the  Black  Canon  holds  the  awe-stricken  attention  of  the 
traveler.  At  last  the  train  rolls  out  into  the  valley  of  the  Gunnison,  and 
pastoral  scenes  take  the  place  of  the  tumultuous  grandeur  just  beheld. 

But  soon  a  new  marvel  demands  attention.  The  ascent  of  Marshall  Pass 
is  just  begun.  We  have  just  gone  through  the  mountains,  now  we  are  to  go 
over  them.  The  Pacific  slope  is  now  to  be  achieved.  Two  powerful  engines 
puff  vigorously  and  take  us  spinning  up  the  ringing  grooves  of  this  marvelous 
road,  climbing  grades  of  211  feet  to  the  mile  with  as  much  apparent  ease  as 
though  we  were  traversing  the  level  plain.  What  a  varied  panorama  of 
mountain  views  meets  the  gaze,  and  when  the  summit  is  reached,  10,852  feet 
above  the  distant  sea,  the  train  pauses  and  the  eye  sweeps  the  prospect  as  far 
as  vision  reaches.  To  the  right,  fading  away  into  the  blue  distance,  can  be 
seen  the  serrated  range  of  the  Sangre  de  Cristo  Mountains,  snow-covered 
pyramids  of  transcendent  beauty.  To  the  left  towers  fire-scarred  Mount 
Ouray,  a  volcano  whose  fires  died  out  ages  ago,  while  opposite  stands  its 
companion  peak,  Mount  Shaveno.  Beneath  is  the  pathway  of  our  ascent, 
four  lines  in  view,  each  one  an  ascending  circle  of  our  tortuous  upward 
journey. 


CATHEDRAL  SPIRE. 


"Around  the  Circle." 


33 


Half  a  dozen  revolutions  of  the  wheels  and  we  are  on  the  Atlantic  slope. 
The  waters  all  run  to  the  eastward  now.  One  engine  holds  the  train  in 
check.  There  are  no  smoke  and  cinders.  Pneumatic  breaks  skillfully 
applied  by  the  engineer  control  the  power  of  gravitation,  which  is  the  sole 
force  needed  to  carry  the  long  train  down  its  winding  way.  The  sinuosity  of 
the  descent  is  something  indescribable.  A  glance  at  the  illustration  of  the 
alignment  of  the  road  over  Marshall  Pass  will  convey  a  better  idea  than  any- 
thing that  could  be  said.  The  descent  is  ended  at  Poncha  Springs,  and  the 
train  enters  the  valley  of  the  Arkansas. 

At  Poncha  are  some  of  the  most  remarkable  hot  springs  to  be  found  any- 
where in  the  West.  There  are  over  one  hundred  of  these  springs ;  the  water 
varies  in  temperature  from  90  to  185  degrees  Fahrenheit.  The  analysis  of  the 
Poncha  Springs  corresponds  almost  exactly  with  that  of  the  waters  of  the  Hot 
Springs  in  Arkansas. 

From  the  Arkansas  Valley  can  be  obtained  a  fine  view  of  the  Collegiate 
range  of  mountains,  including  the  peaks  of  Harvard,  Yale  and  Princeton,  all 
of  which  reach  an  altitude  greater  than  fourteen  thousand  feet. 

The  crowning  attraction,  the  wonder  of  wonders,  the  marvel  of  marvels, 
yet  remains  to  be  seen.  The  Grand  Canon  of  the  Arkansas  lies  before  us. 
There  are  no  words  in  the  language  which  can  describe  this  canon.  There 
are  no  pigments  on  the  artist's  palette  that  can  paint  it ;  it  is  indescribable 
and  entirely  heyond  the  reach  of  mimetic  art.  The  Grand  Canon  is  seven 
miles  in  length — seven  miles  of  wonders,  seven  miles  of  the  grandest,  most 
awful  scenery  in  the  world.  To  the  right  boils  and  surges  the  Arkansas  River, 
above  which  tower  the  red  rocks  of  the  canon.  To  the  left  are  cliffs,  jutting 
in  places  above  the  track,  and  rising  to  tremendous  and  awe-inspiring  heights. 
The  progress  down  the  canon  is  by  means  of  many  intricate  curves,  and  it 
seems  as  though  the  engine  would  dash  itself  to  atoms  against  the  cliffs,  but 
each  time  a  slight  turn  is  made  and  the  train  rounds  the  promontory  in  safety. 
Soon  the  tourist  finds  himself  in  the  heart  of  the  mountain.  Peak  upon 
peak  rises  above  him,  until  the  splintered  summits  seem  to  touch  the  sky. 
Darker  and  darker  grow  the  shadows,  narrower  and  still  more  narrow  grows 
the  gorge,  deeper  and  deeper  grows  the  gloom,  the  river  ceases  its  roaring, 
the  noise  of  the  train  is  hardly  perceptible,  for  the  engineer  has  "  slowed  up," 
and  the  Royal  Gorge  is  at  hand.  Here  the  canon  is  not  wide  enough  for 
road  and  river,  and  here  is  one  of  the  most  remarkable  feats  of  engineering. 
Right  across  the  gorge,  fifty  feet  wide  at  the  base  and  perhaps  seventy  at  the 
summit,  which  soars  above  to  a  height  of  nearly  three  thousand  feet,  a 
series  of  great  iron  braces  has  been  thrown,  from  which  huge  iron  bars  de- 
pend, holding  a  long  iron  bridge  in  suspension,  that  clings  to  the  face  of  the 
cliff,  and  runs,  not  across,  but  parallel  with  the  course  of  the  river.    The  eye 


u  Around  the  Circle." 


35 


can  scarcely  comprehend  the  stupendous  height  of  the  perpendicular  cliffs 
whose  summits  pierce  the  heavens  half  a  mile  above  our  heads. 

After  beholding  the  Royal  Gorge  the  traveler  has  a  superlative  comparison 
for  all  that  is  wonderful  and  grand  in  nature.  He  has  seen  something  which 
he  can  never  forget,  and  of  the  many  marvels  of  this  marvelous  journey 
**  Around  the  Circle,"  the  greatest  of  them  all,  the  crowning  glory,  is  the 
Royal  Gorge. 

It  will  not  be  inappropriate  to  make  some  special  mention  of  several  of 
the  more  important  points  of  interest  on  the  circle  tour,  and  we  add  below  a 
short  description  of  the  "Royal  .Gorge,"  "  Toltec  Gorge,"  "Animas 
Canon,"  "  Black  Canon  of  the  Gunnison,"  and  the  "  Marshall  Pass." 

THE  BLACK  CANON. 

In  all  the  world  there  is  no  place  so  beautiful,  imposing,  sublime  and  awful, 
that  may  be  so  easy  and  comfortably  visited,  as  the  Black  Canon,  for  the  iron 
horse  of  the  Denver  &  Rio  Grande  Railroad  has  a  pathway  through  the  canon, 
and  he  draws  after  him  coaches  as  handsome  and  pleasant  as  those  which  he 
draws  on  the  level  plain.  Along  many  miles  of  this  grand  gorge  the  railroad 
lies  upon  a  shelf  that  has  been  blasted  in  the  solid  walls  of  God's  masonry ; 
walls  that  stand  sheer  two  thousand  feet  in  height,  and  so  close  together  that 
for  most  of  the  distance  through  the  canon  only  a  streak  of  sky,  sometimes  in 
broad  daylight,  spangled  with  stars,  is  seen  above. 

0 

"I'll  look  no  more ; 
Lest  my  brain  turn,  and  the  deficient  sight 
Topple  down  headlong." 

Unlike  many  of  the  Colorado  canons,  the  scenery  in  this  one  is  kaleido- 
scopic, ever  changing.  Here  the  train  glides  along  between  the  close,  regular 
and  exalted  walls,  then  suddenly  it  passes  the  mouth  of  another  mighty  canon 
which  looks  as  if  it  were  a  great  gateway  to  an  unroofed  arcade  leading  from 
the  pathway  of  some  monstrous  giant.  Now,  at  a  sharp  turn,  Chippeta 
Falls,  a  stream  of  liquid  crystal,  pitches  from  the  top  of  the  dizzy  cliffs  to  the 
bosom  of  the  sparkling  river  which  dashes  beside  the  road.  Then  a  spacious 
amphitheater  is  passed,  in  the  centre  of  which  stands  Currecanti  Needle, 
solitary  and  alone,  a  towering  monument  of  solid  stone,  which  reaches  to 
where  it  flaunts  the  clouds,  like  some  great  cathedral  spire.  Truly  there  is 
no  gorge  in  all  the  Rocky  range  that  presents  such  variety  and  grandeur  as 
the  Black  Canon  of  the  Gunnison. 


TOLTEC  GORGE. 


"Around  the  Circle." 


37 


MARSHALL  PASS. 

Marshall  Pass  is  entered  almost  imperceptibly  from  Poncha  Pass,  and  the 
whole  wonderful  ascent  might  very  readily  be  imagined  as  one  and  the  same. 
The  summit  is  almost  eleven  thousand  feet  above  the  sea,  and  the  tortuous 
method  by  which  the  daring  engineers  of  the  Denver  &  Rio  Grande  Railroad 
have  achieved  this  summit  can  best  be  understood  by  a  glance  at  the  cut 
illustrating  the  alignment  of  the  track,  shown  on  another  page.  As  the  train 
progresses  up  the  steep  the  view  becomes  less  obstructed  by  mountain  sides 
and  the  eye  roams  over  miles  of  cone-shaped  summits.  The  timberless  tops 
of  towering  ranges  show  him  that  he  is  among  the  heights  and  in  a  region 
familiar  with  the  clouds.  Then  he  beholds,  stretching  away  to  the  left,  the 
most  perfect  of  all,  the  Sierras.  The  sunlight  falls  with  a  white,  transfiguring 
radiance  upon  the  snow-crowned  spires  of  the  Sangre  de  Cristo  range.  Their 
sharp  and  dazzling  pyramids,  which  near  at  hand  are  clearly  defined,  extend 
to  the  southward  until  cloud  and  sky  and  snowy  peak  commingle  and  form  a 
vague  and  bewildering  vision.  To  the  right  towers  the  fire -scarred  front  of 
old  Ouray,  grand,  solitary  and  forbidding.  Ouray  holds  the  pass,  standing 
sentinel  at  the  rocky  gateway  to  the  fertile  Gunnison.  Slowly  the  steeps  are 
conquered,  until  at  last  the  train  halts  upon  the  summit  of  the  continental 
divide  which  separates  the  waters  of  the  Atlantic  and  Pacific.  The  traveler 
looks  down  upon  four  lines  of  road,  terrace  beyond  terrace,  the  last  so  far  be- 
low as  to  be  quite  indistinct  to  view.  Wonder  at  the  triumphs  of  engineer- 
ing skill  is  strangely  mingled  with  the  feelings  of  awe  and  admiration  at  the 
stupendous  grandeur  of  the  scene. 


TOLTEC  GORGE. 

The  approach  to  this  great  scenic  wonder  prepares  the  traveler  for  some- 
thing extraordinary  and  spectacular.  A  black  speck  in  the  distance  against 
the  precipitous  surface  of  a  frowning  cliff  is  beheld  long  before  Toltec  is 
reached,  and  is  pointed  out  as  the  entrance  to  the  tunnel,  which  is  the  gate- 
way to  the  Gorge.  As  the  advance  is  made  around  mountain  spurs  and  deep 
ravines,  glimpses  are  caught  of  profound  depths  and  towering  heights,  the 
black  speck  widens  into  a  yawning  portcullis,  and  then  the  train,  making  a 
detour  of  four  miles  around  a  side  canon,  plunges  into  the  blackness  of  Toltec 
tunnel,  which  is  remarkable  in  that  it  pierces  the  summit  of  the  mountain 


"  Around  the  Circle." 


39 


instead  of  its  base.  Fifteen  hundred  feet  of  perpendicular  descent  would 
take  one  to  the  bottom  of  the  gorge,  while  the  seared  and  wrinkled  expanse 
of  the  opposite  wall  confronts  us,  lifting  its  massive  bulwarks  high  above  us, 

"  Fronting  heaven's  splendor, 
Strong  and  full  and  clear." 

When  the  train  emerges  from  the  tunnel  it  is  upon  the  brink  of  a 
precipice.  A  solid  bridge  of  trestle-work,  set  in  the  rock  after  the  manner  of 
a  balcony,  supports  the  track,  and  from  this  coigne  of  vantage  the  traveler 
beholds  a  most  thrilling  spectacle.  The  tremendous  gorge,  whose  sides  are 
splintered  rocks  and  monumental  crags,  and  whose  depths  are  filled  with  the 
snow-white  waters  of  a  foaming  torrent,  lies  beneath  him,  the  blue  sky  above 
him,  and  all  around  the  majesty  and  mystery  of  the  mountains. 

ANIMAS  CANON. 

Animas  Canon  is  one  of  the  wildest  and  most  picturesque  gorges  in  the 
Rocky  Mountains.  Through  it  the  Rio  de  las  Animas  Perdidas,  or  "  River 
of  Lost  Souls,"  finds  its  way  to  the  valley  below.  For  a  dozen  miles  north  of 
Durango  the  Denver  &  Rio  Grande  Railroad  traverses  the  fertile  and  culti- 
vated valley  of  the  Animas  in  its  approach  to  the  canon.  Soon  the  valley  be- 
comes more  broken  and  contracted,  the  approaching  walls  grow  more  pre- 
cipitous and  the  smooth  meadows  give  place  to  stately  pines  and  sighing 
sycamores.  The  silvery  Animas  frets  in  its  narrowing  bed  and  breaks  into 
foam  against  the  opposing  boulders.  The  road  climbs  and  clings  to  the  rising: 
cliffs,  and  presently  the  earth  and  stately  pines  have  receded  and  the  train 
rolls  along  a  mere  granite  shelf  in  mid-air.  Above,  the  vertical  wall  rises  a 
thousand  feet ;  below,  hundreds  of  feet  of  perpendicular  depth  and  a  fathom- 
less river.  The  canon  is  here  a  mere  rent  in  the  mountain,  so  narrow  one 
may  toss  a  pebble  across,  and  the  cramped  stream  has  assumed  the  deep 
emerald  hue  of  the  ocean.  In  the  shadows  of  the  rocks,  all  is  solitary,  and 
weird,  and  awful.  The  startled  traveler  quickly  loses  all  apprehension  in  the 
wondrous  beauty  and  grandeur  of  the  scene,  and,  as  successive  curves  repeat 
and  enhance  the  enchantment,  nature  asserts  herself  in  ecstacy.  Emerging 
from  the  marvelous  gorge,  the  bed  of  the  canon  rapidly  rises,  until  the  road- 
way is  but  a  few  feet  above  the  stream.  Dark  walls  of  rock  are  replaced  with 
clustering  mountains  of  supreme  height,  whose  abruptness  defies  the  foot  of 
man,  and  The  Needles,  the  most  peculiar  and  striking  of  the  Rockies,  thrust 
their  splintered  pinnacles  into  the  region  of  perpetual  snow. 


ROYAL  GORGE. 


"Around  the  Circle." 


41 


THE  ROYAL  GORGE. 


The  crowning  wonder  of  this  wonderful  Denver  &  Rio  Grande  Railroad 
is  the  Royal  Gorge.    Situated  between  Canon  City  and  Salida,  it  is  easy  ot 
access  either  from  Denver  or  Pueblo.    After  the  entrance  to  the  canon  has 
been  made  surprise  and  almost  terror  comes.    The  train  rolls  round  a  long 
curve  close  under  a  wall  of  black  and  banded  granite,  beside  which  the  pon- 
derous locomotive  shrinks  to  a  mere  dot,  as  if  swinging  on  some  pivot  in  the 
heart  of  the  mountain,  or  captured  by  a  centripetal  force  that  would  never 
resign  its  grasp.  Almost  a  whole  circle  is  accomplished,  and  the  grand  amphi- 
theatrical  sweep  of  the  wall  shows  no  break  in  its  zenith-cutting  facade. 
Will  the  journey  end  here  ?  Is  it  a  mistake  that  this  crevice  goes  through  the 
range?     Does  not  all  this  mad  water  gush  from  some  powerful  spring,  or 
boil  out  of  a  subterranean  channel  impenetrable  to  us  ?    No,  it  opens.  Re- 
sisting centripetal,  centrifugal  force  claims  the  train,  and  it  breaks  away  at  a 
tangent  past  the  edge  or  around  the  corner  of  the  great  black  wall  which 
compelled  its  detour  and  that  of  the  river  before  it.    Now  what  glories  of  rock 
piling  confront  the  wide -distended  eye!     How  those  sharp-edgea  cliffs, 
standing  with  upright  heads  that  play  a  handball  with  the  clouds,  alternate 
with  one  another,  so  that  first  the  right,  then  the  left,  then  the  right  one  be- 
yond strike  our  view,  each  one  half  obscured  by  its  fellow  in  front,  each  showing 
itself  level  browed  with  its  comrades  as  we  come  even  with  it,  each  a  score  of 
hundreds  ot  dizzy  feet  in  height,  rising  perpendicularly  from  the  water  and 
the  track,  splintered  atop  into  airy  pinnacles,  braced  behind  against  the  al- 
most continental  mass  through  which  the  chasm  has  been  cleft.    This  is  the 
Royal  Gorge. 

The  following  is  a  description  of  the  points  of  interest  in  the  exact  order 
on  the  Trip  Around  the  Circle,  starting  from  Denver : 

Castle  RocR.— 32  miles  from  Denver,  east  side  of  track.  A  bold  and 
remarkable  promontory  rising  from  the  plain. 

Casa  Blanca.— 50  miles  from  Denver,  between  Greenland  station  and 
Palmer  Lake,  west  side  of  track.  An  enormous  white  rock,  1,000  feet  long 
and  200  feet  high,  presenting  the  appearance  of  a  castle. 

Palmer  L,afee.— 52  miles  from  Denver.  A  beautiful  sheet  of  water 
on  the  exact  summit  of  the  Divide,  altitude  7,238  feet. 


*<  Around  the  Circle." 


43 


Glen  Parfc.-Half  mile-  south  of  Palmer  Lake,  west  side  of  track. 
Colorado's  Chautauqua. 

Phoebe's  Arch.-One  mile  south  of  Palmer  Lake,  east  side  of  track. 
A  natural  archway  through  a  massive,  castled  rock  of  red  sandstone. 

Monument  ParK.-65  miles  from  Denver,  distant  view,  west  side  of 
trackTom  Edgerton  station.  A  natural  park  filled  with  fantastic  and  imita- 
tive  rock  formations. 

i»ifce's  Peak.-8o  miles  from  Denver.  5  miles  from  Colorado  Springs 
ThT  molt  famous  peak  of  the  Rockies,  altitude  .4,-47  feet.  Easy  of  ascent 
from  Manitou  by  the  Cog  Wheel  Railway. 

i»»«it»n  Snrings.-Manitou  branch,  80  miles  from  Denver,  5  miles 

Manitou  springs.  w       popular  summer  resort, 

from  Colorado  Springs.   The  Saratoga  of tbe  w  £  biects 

wonderful  ^^^T^L  Secluding  «  Garden  of 

of  inte^^yo^pl^^  Cafio      <(  crystal  park  ,,  , 

the  Gods       Glen  Eyne^  (<  ^  Cavems  „  „  Cave  of 

rwSr-  u  ~-  ^ Faiis  and  ■ Bear  creek  cason-" 

*  i^ftiU  -Manitou  branch.  One  and  one-half  miles 
J5ZZ"*SZX  Xc£  over  as  a  most  interesting  and  wonderful 
park,  abounding  in  strange  and  majestic  rock  forms. 

,„.„     Twn  miles  south  of  Colorado  Springs.  One 

burial  place  of  the  author  and  poet,  "  H.  H. 

vanish  Peafes.-Two  twin  peaks  rising  from  the  plains,  without  any 
Spanisn  .  *        Vi=;v,if>  all  the  wav,  to  the  east- 

begun.    Height  of  peaks  respectively,  13,620  and  12,720  feet. 

™       «     TViic  monarch  of  all  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and  the 

Elevation,  I4,464  ^eet- 

«r  w^oi  ran  -Del  Norte  branch.   The  hot  springs  of  the 

The  best  trout  fishing  in  tne  vvebi.  ^ 
Elevation,  8,448  feet. 


"AROUND  THE  CIRCLE." 


45 


Creede.-Del  Norte  branch.    New  mining  camp  of  great  promise. 
Population  8,000.   The  latest  and  greatest  mineral  discovery. 

Entrance  to  the  Gap.-Del  Norte  branch.  The  gap  P™per£» 
cleft  through  a  great  hill  with  walls  suggesting  the  palisades  of  the  Hudson 
and  of  about  the  same  height.  Through  this  gap  flows  the  waters  of  the  Rio 
Grande  del  Norte,  bright  and  spacing,  fresh  from  their  mountain  sources. 

San  I.U1S  Parfe.-This  park  or  valley  is  one  hundred  miles  long  by 
sixty  broad,  altitude  7,000  feet,  surrounded  by  mountains  from  4.000(07,000 
eet  higher  than  the  plain.  The  soil  is  fertile,  and  by  irrigation  is  being  de- 
veloped into  a  fine  agricultural  region.    Distance  from  Denver,  250  miles. 

Phantom  Cnrve.-After  Sublette,  305  miles  from  Denver,  has  been 
passed,  the  road  makes  a  great  bend  around  the  side  of  a  mountain  ;  on  the 
fef  rise  tall  monuments  of  sandstone  cut  by  the  elements  -to  the  form  of 
weird  and  fantastic  figures ;  this  has  been  appropriately  named  Phantom 
Curve." 

Toltec  Gorge.-From  Big  Horn,  distant  298  miles  from  Denver  to 
Cumbres,  there  is  a  succession  of  magnificent  and  awe-inspiring  views  About 
midway  between  the  two,  at  Toltec  station,  309  miles  from  Denver  is  Toltec 
Gorge.  The  road  traverses  the  verge  of  this  great  chasm,  the  bottom  of 
which  is  1,500  feet  below.  The  best  view  is  on  the  bridge  .mmediately  after 
passing  through  Toltec  Tunnel. 

Parneld  Memorlal.-Just  beyond  the  bridge  at  Toltec  Gorge  stands 
anmnumen of  graTe  in  memory  of  President  Garfield.  On  the  26th  day 
of  September,  rsir,  the  National  Association  of  General  Passenger  Agents 
at  the  time  President  Garfield  was  being  buried  in  Cleveland  held  memoria 
services  at  the  mouth  of  Toltec  Tunnel,  and  since  have  erected  this  beautiful 
monument  in  memory  of  the  event. 

Cumbres  Summtt.-Distant  from  Denver,  329  miles.  Summit  of  the 
Conejos  range.   Elevation,  10,014  feet. 

Trimble  Hot  SprlngS.-Health  and  pleasure  resort,  459  miles  from 
Denver-,™  miles  from  Durango  and  36  miles  from  Silverton.  The  springs  are 
noted  for  their  strong  remedial  character.   Elevation,  6,644  feet. 

Animas  Canon.-Just  beyond  Rockwood,  469  miles  from  Denver  the 
AnlnTcX  begins.  This  gorge  is  formed  ^  the  breaking  through  the 
range  of  the  Rio  de  las  Animas  Perdidas.  The  road  is  built  along  a  shelf  cut 
in  the  solid  rock-wall  of  the  canon,  which  towers  500  feet  above  and  drops 
,  000  feet  below  the  track.  In  this  it  differs  from  all  other  scenes  on  the  line. 


"  Around  the  Circle."  47 

The  ffeedles.-After  emerging  from  the  western  extremity  ot  Animas 
Canon  the  traveler  can  see  The  Needle  Mountains,  the  most  peculiar  and 
striking  of  the  Rockies,  thrusting  their  splintered  pinnacles  into  the  regions  of 
perpetual  snow. 

Elk  Park.- Animas  Canon  having  been  passed,  the  road  enters  Elk 
Park,  a  beautiful  little  valley  in  the  midst  of  the  range,  a  spot  rich  in  material 
for  the  artist  in  search  of  new  impressions. 

Garfield  Peak.-At  the  western  extremity  of  Elk  Park  rises  Garfield 
Peak,  a  grand  and  impressive  mountain  towering  to  a  height  of  a  mile  above 
the  track. 

Sultan  Mountain.-Silverton,  the  terminus  of  this  branch  of  the 
line,  is  495  miles  from  Denver.  It  is  surrounded  by  mountains  rich  in  min- 
end-bearing  mines.  One  of  the  most  picturesque  of  these  is  Sultan  Moun- 
tain, which  reaches  an  elevation  of  I4,II5  feet- 

Ourav.-Picturesque  mountain  town.    Hot  springs  of  medicinal  prop- 
erties make  this  a  resort  for  health  and  pleasure.  The 
Ouray  are  among  the  richest  in  Colorado.  Population,  3,000.  Distance  fiom 
Denver,  388  miles.    Elevation,  7,640  feet. 

¥  o*  Pinos  Aeency.-The  ruins  of  the  old  Los  Pinos  Agency  can 
be  ten  ,™  from  Montrose.  The  old  store  house  and  council  chamber 
are  still  standing. 

Ft  Crawford.- Nine  miles  from  Montrose  the  road  passes  through 
the  u'  S  Military  Reservation,  called  as  above.  This  post  is  now  abandoned 
by  troops,  and  the  land  may  shortly  be  thrown  open  for  settlement. 

tf  nim>eta>s  Home-Four  miles  from  Montrose  can  still  be  seen  the 
late  residfnee  of  Chippeta,  the  widow  of  Ouray,  the  dead  Ute  chief,  who 
was  always  the  friend  of  the  white  man. 

Uncompahgre  Mountains.-After  passing  Montrose  353  miles 
from  Denver,  a  fine  view  of  the  Uncompahgre  Mountains,  extending  to  the 
southwest,  can  be  obtained.  Uncompahgre  Peak,  the  monarch  of  the  range, 
rises  to  an  altitude  of  H>235  feeU 

Cerro  Summit.  -  The  ascent  is  commenced  directly  after  leaving 
Cimarron  station  on  the  westward  journey.  From  here  the  Uncompahgre 
VaTley,  its  river  and  the  distant,  picturesque  peaks  of  the  San  Juan  are  withm 
full  sight  of  the  traveler. 

Cimarron  Canon. -Western  entrance  to  Black  Canon,  the  road 
passing  up  Cimarron  Creek,  where  it  debouches  in  the  Gunnison.  The 
Cimarfon  abounds  in  trout  and  the  country  round  about  swarms  with  large 
game. 


"Around  the  Circle." 


49 


Currecanti  Needle.— Situated  in  a  spacious  amphitheater,  midway 
of  the  Black  Canon,  this  curious  monolith  towers  upward  like  a  great  cathe- 
dral spire. 

Chippeta  Falls.— A  beautiful  waterfall  near  the  east  end  of  Black 
Canon,  that  plunges  from  the  summit  of  the  canon  wall,  descending  in  a 
sheet  of  snowy  spray  to  the  Gunnison  River  below. 

Black  Canon.— Twenty-five  miles  west  from  Gunnison.  Along  many 
miles  of  this  grand  gorge  the  railroad  lies  upon  a  shelf  hewn  from  the  living 
rock,  which  rises  frequently  to  an  altitude  of  over  two  thousand  feet.  The 
canon  is  sixteen  miles  in  length,  and  abounds  in  many  striking  features. 

Gunnison  River  and  Valley  .-Just  after  passing  Gunnison  City, 
290  miles  from  Denver,  the  valley  of  the  Gunnison  is  entered,  and  upon  the 
right,  as  one  journeys  westward,  flows  the  beautiful  Gunnison  river. 

Mount  Snavano.— Shavano  is  a  companion  to  Mount  Ouray,  and 
rises  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  track  to  an  altitude  of  14,238  feet. 

Mount  Ouray.— At  the  summit  of  Marshall  Pass,  242  miles  from 
Denver.  An  extinct  volcano  whose  crater  can  be  plainly  seen.  Altitude 
14,043  feet. 

Marshall  Pass.— Begins  six  miles  from  Poncha  Junction,  at  Mears 
Junction.  The  summit  of  the  Pass  has  an  altitude  of  10,852  feet.  From 
this  point  a  magnificent  view  can  be  had  of  the  Sangre  de  Cnsto  range 
extending  to  the  southeast.  The  pass  is  a  scenic  and  a  scientific  wonder, 
grades  of  211  feet  to  the  mile  are  frequent,  and  the  ascent  and  descent  are 
made  by  a  series  of  most  remarkable  curves.  The  streams  from  the  summit 
flow  eastward  into  the  Atlantic  and  westward  into  the  Pacific. 

Poncha  Pass.— Two  miles  from  Poncha  Junction  ;  leads  up  to  Mar- 
shall Pass. 

Poncha  Springs.— Five  miles  from  Salida.  Noted  hot  springs. 
Temperature  of  the  water  varies  in  the  different  springs,  100  in  number,  from 
908  to  1850  Fahrenheit.    A  great  health  resort.    Altitude,  7,480  feet. 

Arkansas  River  and  Valley.— The  railroad  crosses  the  Arkansas 
River  at  Salida,  and  from  the  bridge,  and  until  the  town  of  Poncha  Springs 
has  been  passed,  a  fine  view  can  be  had  of  the  river  and  its  fertile  valley. 

Collegiate  Peaks.— Harvard,  Yale  and  Princeton  peaks,  plainly 
seen  from  the  vicinity  of  Salida  to  the  northwest.  Altitude,  respectively, 
14,383  feet,  14,101  feet,  14,199  ieet. 


BEAR  CREEK  FALLS. 


"Around  the  Circle." 


5i 


Sangre  de  Cristo  Range.-On  approaching  Salida,  near  the  west- 
ern end  of  the  Grand  Canon,  there  is  a  break  in  the  walls  through  which  fine 
pictures  of  the  Sangre  de  Cristo  peaks  present  themselves. 

The  Royal  Gorge.— The  climax  of  all  the  grandeur  of  the  Grand 
Canon  of  the  Arkansas  lies  midway  in  this  wonderful  chasm.  The  best 
view  can  be  obtained  from  the  famous  hanging  bridge.  Here  the  walls  of 
the  canon  rise  to  a  perpendicular  height  of  2,600  feet  above  the  track. 

Grand  Canon  of  the  Arhansas.-i65  miles  from  Denver  be- 
tween Canon  City  and  Parkdale,  eight  miles  long.  The  world-famed  chasm 
through  which  the  river  makes  its  way  to  the  plains. 

The  following  points  of  interest  are  located  on  the  line  of  the  Rio  Grande 
Southern  Railroad  between  Durango  and  Ridgway  : 

Cliff  Dwellings.-These  interesting  ruins  are  located  in  the  Mancos 
Ca£n™  Montfzuma  Valley,  some  twenty  miles  to  the  south ^o  Manco 
station,  and  easily  accessible  from  that  point  by  saddl e  horses  qv er  a  good 
trail  A  journey  to  this  historic  spot  will  well  repay  the  time  and  trouble  it 
would  involve.  Horses,  guides,  and  necessary  equipment  can  be  engaged  at 
Mancos. 

tost  Canon.-This  small  carton  is  between  Mancos  and  Dolores,  and 
thouTno^tong  or  high  as  numbers  of  others  in  the  Circle  tour  »  none  the 
Interesting,  as  it  possesses  many  novelties  in  the  way  of  mountam 
scenery. 

Dolores  Canon.-  While  this  canon  is  not  particularly  deep,  its 
natural  beauties  are  manifold,  and  are  sure  to  make  a  lasting  impression  on 
the  beholder.    This  canon  is  passed  just  before  arriving  at  Rico. 

Rico.-An  important  mining  town  of  some  2,000  inhabitants,  beautifully 
situated  in  the  center  of  a  huge  amphitheater  of  high,  snow-capped  moun- 
tains. 

¥  ward  Head  Pass.-A  mountain  pass  similar  to  Marshall  Pass, 
cJffE f  UHnceomdpangre  Range  at  an  elevation  of 
pentine  windings  of  the  railroad  up  the  mountain  sides  are  fell  of  interest. 

Lizard  Head.-A  peculiar  rock  formation  at  the  summit  of  the  pass 
of  the  same  name  resembling  the  head  of  a  mountain  lizard. 

Tront  Lake.-A  beautiful  little  lake  of  clear,  cold  mountain  water, 
filled  with  thousands  of  trout.  Good  accommodations  for  the  sportsman  are 
near  at  hand,  and  a  few  days  can  be  pleasantly  spent  here. 


"  Around  the  Circle." 


53 


The  Ophir  toop.-The  descent  down  the  mountainside  after  leav- 
ing Trout  Lake  is  called  as  above,  and  is  one  of  the  most  daring  and  intricate 
pieces  of  railroad  engineering  that  exists  in  the  world. 

Telluride.-Telluride  is  located  on  a  branch  from  the  main  line  some 
ten  miles  away.  It  is  surrounded  on  all  sides  by  high  mountains  whose  faces 
are  potted  with  innumerable  mines,  whose  product  is  the  chief  source  of  rev- 
enue to  the  2,500  inhabitants  of  this  beautiful  mountain  town. 

San  Miguel  River.-Leaving  Vance  Junction,  the  line  follows  the 
course  of  the  San  Miguel  River  through  the  beautiful  Shenandoah  Valley. 

The  Dallas  Dlvide.-This  divide  is  over  a  spur  of  the  Uncompahgre 
Range  on  grades  of  three  and  four  per  cent.  Leaving  the  summit,  going 
eastward  toward  Ridgway  and  to  the  right  of  the  train,  is  the.  main  range  of 
the  Uncompahgre  with  its  soft  shaded  sides  towering  into  splintered  pinnacles 
above. 

Rideway.-The  northern  terminus  of  the  Rio  Grande  Southern  Rail- 
road and  the  junction  of  that  road  and  the  Denver  &  Rio  Grande  «,a 
city  of  some  1,500  inhabitants.  Here  are  located  the  round-houses  and  the 
shops  of  the  Rio  Grnde  Southern,  giving  employment  to  hundreds  of  ma- 
chinists and  laborers. 


HEALTH  AND  PLEASURE  RESORTS  OF  THE  ROCKY 

MOUNTAINS. 


Located  on  the  Line  of  the  Denver  &  Rio  Grande  Railroad. 


On  or  Easily  Reached  from  the  "Around  the  Circle"  Trip. 


MINERAL  SPRINGS. 


Manitou  Springs  Soda  and  iron. 

Pueblo  -  Magnetic  well. 

Parnassus   Alkaline. 

Carlile  -  Soda. 

Canon  City    -  Soda. 

Royal  Gorge  ...Hot  springs. 

Wellsville  Hot  springs. 

Poncha  Hot  springs. 

Waunita  -  -  Hot  springs. 

Ouray  -  -  -  Hot  springs. 

Salt  Lake  City  -  Hot  sulphur. 

Buena  Vista    Cottonwood  hot  springs. 

Hey  wood  Hot  springs. 

Leadville    .Soda  springs. 

Siloam  Springs.  Hot  springs. 

Steamboat  Springs  Hot  sulphur,  iron  and  soda. 

Glenwood  Springs....  - —  Hot  sulphur. 

Wagon  Wheel  Gap  Hot  springs. 

Antelope  Springs  ....Hot  and  cold. 

Pagosa      -  Hot  springs. 

Oj  o  Caliente   -  -  Hot  springs. 

Trimble  Hot  springs. 


PLEASURE  RESORTS. 

Perry  Park  Buena  Vista  Ouray 

Glen  Park  Twin  Lakes  Provo 

Diana  Park  Glenwood  Springs  Lake  Park 

Manitou  La  Veta  Cottonwood  Lake 

Beula  Palmer  Lake  Evergreen  Lakes 

Salida  Monument  Park  Steamboat  Springs 

Lake  City  Colorado  Springs  Wagon  Wheel  Gap 

Cimarron  Canon  City  Trimble  Springs 

Salt  Lake  City  Poncha  Springs  Antelope  Springs 

Trout  Lake  Rico  Telluride 

54 


MOUNTAIN  PEAKS  AND  PASSES  OF  COLORADO. 


With  their  Elevation  Above  Sea  lievel. 


FEET. 


Blanca  i4,483 

Elbert  14,436 

Massive  i4>424 

Uncompahgre   *4,4T9 

Gray's   14,4" 

Harvard   14,375 

Rosalie  14,34° 

Sneffles   14,340 

Torrey  14.336 

Evans  14,321 

Wilson  14,309 

La  Plata   14,302 

Lincoln   14,297 

Long's  -14,271 

Quandary  _  14,269 

Antero  14,245 

Shavano   14,239 

Crestones  14,233 

Princeton  14,199 

Mount  Bross  14,185 

Yale  14,181 

Holy  Cross  14,176 

Baldy   14,176 

Lizard  Head  14,160 

Handies  i4>*49 

Pike's  14,147 

Goat's  14,132 

Castle   I4>H5 

San  Luis  14,100 

Red  Cloud  14,092 

C-uelha  i4,°79 

Wetterhorn  . .  14,069 

Simpson   14,065 

Ouray  14,055 

R.  G.  Pyramid  14,055 


FEET. 

 14,054 

Needle   

 14,051 

Humboldt  

 14,041 

 14,032 

Sherman  

 14,008 

Maroon   

 14,008 

Capitol  

 13,997 

Snowmass  

 13,978 

Buckskin  

 13,961 

Grizzly  I3,956 

Pigeon  13,928 

Horseshoe   13,909 

Pyramid   13,885 

Frustum  13,883 

Silver  Heels  13,835 

Haynes   13,832 

Hamilton  13,800 

Arkansaw  13,796 

Qjo  13,755 

Sheridan  i3,75o 

Ptarmigan  13, 738 

Gibson   13,729 

Evans  13*650 

Spanish  13,620,  12,718 

Grayback  13,615 

Trinchara  13,611 

Silesia  13,600 

Guyot  13,568 

King  Solomon  13, 550 

Kendall  13, 542 

Arapahoe  .  13 , 520 

Dunn   -..13,502 

Sultan   i3>50i 

Horn  13,447 

Pole  13,400 

Powell  i3,398 


FEET. 

Hunchback  13,357 

Whiterock  13,357 

Italian  i3>350 

Conejos    13, 347 

Buffalo   13,328 

Whiteback  13,327 

James  —.13,283 

Whale  13,200 

Audubon   13,1 73 

Clarks  i3,l67 

Macombs   13^64 

Perrys  13,133 

Mesa  13,131 

Teocalli  13,113 

West  Elk  13,102 

Del  Norte  13,081 

Homestake  13,073 

Mosquito  Pass  13,700 

Alpine  Pass  13,55° 

Cottonwood  Pass  13,500 

Argentine  Pass  1.13,100 

Tarry  all  Pass  12,176 

Fremont  Pass  11,540 

Berthoud  Pass  n,349 

Ute  Pass  11,200 

Belle vue  Pass  11, 000 

Marshall  Pass  10,852 

Hayden  Pass  10,780 

Tennessee  Pass  10,418 

Lizard  Head  Pass  —  io,24& 

Cochetopa  Pass  10,032 

Breckenridge  Pass  ..  9,490 

Veta  Pass  9,392 

Trout  Creek  Pass  9,346 

PonchaPass  8,945 


Seventy-two  peaks  between  13,500  and  14,300  feet  in  height  are  unnamed 
and  not  in  this  list. 


ELEVATION  OF  LAKES. 


FEET. 

Twin  Lakes  9,367 

Grand  Lake  8,153 

Green  Lakes  10,000 


FEET. 

Chicago  Lakes  ii,5°° 

Evergreen  Lakes — 10,500 
Seven  Lakes  11,806 

55 


FEET. 

Palmer  Lake  7,23s 

Cottonwood  Lake  8,700 

Trout  Lake  9,800 


ALTITUDE  OF  TOWNS  AND  CITIES. 


Revised  Since  First  Edition  From  Engineers'  Measurements. 


FEET. 

Alamosa   7,546 

Animas  City   6,554 

Animas  Forks   11,200 

Antonito   7,888 

Aspen   7.775 

Buena  Vista   7,970 

Canon  City   5,344 

Castle  Rock   6,220 

Colorado  Springs...  5,992 

Crested  Butte   8,875 

Conejos   7,880 

Cottonwood  Springs.  7,950 

Cuchara   5,943 

Cumbres   10,015 

Delta    4,963 

Del  Norte   7,880 

Denver   5,196 

Durango   6,520 

:E1  Moro   5,879 


FEET. 


Ft.  Garland   7,936 

Granite   8,945 

Grand  Junction   4,583 

Gunnison  .   7, 680 

Glenwood  Springs..  5,200 

Howardsville   9,700 

Irwin   10,500 

Kokomo  10,631 

Lake  City   8,550 

La  Veta   7,024 

Leadville   10,200 

Las  Pinos   9,637 

Montrose   5,793 

Malta    9,580 

Manitou    6,324 

Ojo  Caliente   7,324 

Ouray   7,640 

Ogden,  Utah   4,286 

Pogosa  Springs   7,108 


FEET. 

Pinos,  Chama  Sum- 


mit.   9,902 

Poncha  Springs   7,480 

Palmer  Lake   7,238 

Pueblo   4,669 

Red  Cliff.   8,671 

Rico   8,735 

Robinson   10,871 

Rosita   8,500 

Ruby  Camp   10,500 

Saguache   7,723 

Salt  Lake  City   4,228 

Silver  Cliff   7,816 

Silverton   9,224 

Salida...   7,050 

Telluride   8,758 

Trimble  Springs   6,644 

Westcliffe   7,864 

Wagon  Wheel  Gap.  8,448 


INFORMATION  FOR  TOURISTS. 

Tickets  will  be  placed  on  sale  May  1,  and  continued  until  October  31. 
Tickets  for  the  journey  "  Around  the  Circle"  will  be  sold  for  $28.00  from 

Denver,  Colorado  Springs,  Manitou  and  Pueblo. 
Tickets  will  be  good  thirty  days  from  date  of  sale. 

Stop-overs  will  be  allowed  at  any  point  or  points  on  the  trip  for  any  length 

of  time  within  the  life  of  the  ticket. 
Side  trips  can  be  taken  to  any  point  on  the  line,  not  covered  by  the  round 

trip,  at  one-half  the  regular  rates. 
The  purchaser  can  have  choice  of  route,  going  either  via  Silverton  and 

Ouray  or  Montrose  and  Ouray,  or  via  the  Rio  Grande  Southern  R.  R. 
The  journey  "Around  the  Circle"  can  be  comfortably  made  in  four  days, 

with  rests  at  Durango,  Silverton  and  Ouray.    Or  the  entire  thirty  days 

can  be  profitably  and  pleasantly  spent  in  viewing  the  wonderful  scenery 

of  the  trip. 


,HTEREST 


'4*. 


fcoS&*S  X  p0R  ONLY 

$28$ 


Chippeta  Falls 
CURRECANTI  NEEDLE 
CUMMISOH  R«V6R 


ALL  SEEN 
FROM  THE  TRAIN 


30NVU  S3M3WnO 
NOI1VAH3S3H  NVfONJ 
dOOT  «|,Hefo 


4$s^  *°    5  *  S  s  1 1 


